New To The VW Jetta; Technical Questions

Hello All,
I am new to the VW Jetta and have a few technical questions. First off, I have a 1999 MK4 Jetta, 2.0 liter with 5 speed manual. The car has 160,000 miles on it and was not taken care of by the previous owner. I invested about 25 hours of labor gutting the interior so I could shampoo and sanitize it. I am now ready to tackle the mechanical issues and have several symptoms that I need help in diagnosing. I can get the car to start and idle, roughly, but if I push in the clutch, the engine dies. I can keep it reved and it will continue running although, but when I try to take off, I have to keep the RPM's high. The oil pressure light comes on intermitently and the alarm sounds. I have changed oil and filter. The previous owner had no business under the hood as I drained out 8+ quarts. The check engine light is on as well, and according to the PO, has been for some time. I know these cars rely heavily on sensors and I feel like that is what is causing the majority of my problems. The engine has a knock or tapping sound, (whatever your preference is). My goal is to get this engine running as best as I can and drive the car back and forth to work, 45 miles round trip. If this engine locks up, I'll stick a new one in it and go on down the road. Thank you everyone for your time.

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Travis
1999 Jetta (Newest Edition)
1996 Ford F-250 XLT, 4x4, 7.3 PSD

160 k on this motor, noises coming from it oil light on Mil HAte to say just start with new motor.

MIL could be any thing at this point.

The fact the engine was over filled with oil could have killed alot of things not just the Ho2s

If you have the time and the will to get it done take one thing at a time and just fix each concern as they come up.

Oil light first pull pan the pick up tube is blocked with hard oil sludge.
this will get you going on the oil light and knocking go from there.

Good luck with this one. she needs alot of TLC to bring her back to the road.

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http://www.vortexautomotive.com

She needs a lot of TLC, but, I like doing this kind of work, it's fun to learn. Is there is a pan gasket or can I just use some RTV sealant when reinstalling the pan? I read on one of these VW forums, can't remember which or I would go back to it, that there are some sensors that are prone to go bad and perhaps have even been recalled? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

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Travis
1999 Jetta (Newest Edition)
1996 Ford F-250 XLT, 4x4, 7.3 PSD

get a good rubber base RTV as you ar glueing a alumiun pan to cast block.
the VW part # is D176 404 A2

This is what i would say to only use but it's $25 bucks but is the best for what you are doing.

start with oil concern first beform you start chasing sensors. get her running then deal with the MIL as this will give you the INFO you need to fix concerns.

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http://www.vortexautomotive.com

Gotta love ebay. VW sealant to my door, $9.00. I take it these motors rely heavily on good oil flow, as do most. Will I need any specialty tools to remove the pan?

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Travis
1999 Jetta (Newest Edition)
1996 Ford F-250 XLT, 4x4, 7.3 PSD

No

But there are 4 bolts that are hard to get to at the bell housing side you have to go thru the hole in the bottom near wher she bolts to trans. plus the trans bolts you will see them.

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http://www.vortexautomotive.com

Thanks for the tip. I'll try to tackle this little project this week as time allows.

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Travis
1999 Jetta (Newest Edition)
1996 Ford F-250 XLT, 4x4, 7.3 PSD

Well, I've been able to remove all but two of the bolts around the bell housing. What is the secret for getting them out? They are blocked just enough that I can't get my 5mm hex shaft to them. I have a 3/16 allan socket that I think will fit in the bolt head enough to break it loose, but I am having a hard time getting that in there as well. Any tricks of the trade would be appreciated. Thank you.

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Travis
1999 Jetta (Newest Edition)
1996 Ford F-250 XLT, 4x4, 7.3 PSD

well they are the two center ones right Smile

if you have or can but 1/4 10mm swivle socket this will get them broke loose so you can you your allen.
remeber the smaller the profile is on the socket the better 1/4 inch is the only one that will fit.

good luck

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http://www.vortexautomotive.com

You are correct sir. I did figure out the 10mm socket but I do not have a swievel. I'll stop buy Sears or the parts store tomorrow morning after work and pick one up. I'll keep you posted on what the oil pan looks like when I get it off. You can probably already guess from my previous posts although.

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Travis
1999 Jetta (Newest Edition)
1996 Ford F-250 XLT, 4x4, 7.3 PSD

if you can get the socket with the swivle built into the socket you be better off.

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http://www.vortexautomotive.com

If they have a full set, I'll pick one up.

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Travis
1999 Jetta (Newest Edition)
1996 Ford F-250 XLT, 4x4, 7.3 PSD

Well I got a 1/4" drive 10mm socket from Craftsman. For the life of me I can't get it to connect on either one of those bolts. Is there such a thing as a swivel allen head socket or do I need to just try it again? I could have have swaped engines in a day if I had a spare one sittin' here. lol

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Travis
1999 Jetta (Newest Edition)
1996 Ford F-250 XLT, 4x4, 7.3 PSD

what socket did you buy. is it a swivel style?

and how big is the head and swivel?

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http://www.vortexautomotive.com

It is an off the shelf craftsman socket. I imagine if I look at a Snap On, it will be more of a shallow socket. I think I might be able to get those bolts broke loose with an allen wrench that has the rounded head. What do you think?

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Travis
1999 Jetta (Newest Edition)
1996 Ford F-250 XLT, 4x4, 7.3 PSD